2018 – followthethings.com

“Letter from Masanjia”
Documentary film starring Sun Yi, directed by Leon Lee, co-written by Sun Yi, Leon Lee & Caylan Ford, in English & Mandarin with English subtitles.
Vimeo trailer and pay per view stream embedded above [may not work in your region]. Check here and here for other streaming options, and here to purchase and here to borrow a DVD or Blu-ray copy [may not work in your region].

One of the earliest examples of trade justice activism that we researched and added to our store was a letter that went viral in 2012 [it’s here]. Oregon, USA shopper Julie Keith had found a one page handwritten note in a box of Kmart Halloween decorations. It was a ‘message in a bottle’ from a prison labour camp in China. It asked her to forward it to the World Human Rights organisation, because these decorations had been made by political prisoners who were being tortured and forced to make these things. The letter was anonymous. She posted a photo of it on facebook asking for help. Soon, the story of the letter was featured in her local newspaper, and was picked up by international news outlets like CNN and the New York Times. They were eager to expose the scandal and to find the person who had written it. The New York Times found him: they called him ‘Mr Zhang’ who was no longer in jail. But the story then reached China via an online post – published and quickly deleted – that caused outrage on Chinese social media. Writing that letter had had the most amazing impact. Doing what its author had asked had had the most amazing impact. China’s ‘Re-education Through Labour’ programme was abolished, and 160,000 political prisoners were released from its prison labour camps. But the New York Times journalist wasn’t the only person who found the author. A Chinese filmmaker living in Canada called Leon Lee had also tracked him down. The author had watched his banned-in-China documentary about the human organ trade in China via a VPN connection. For that film, Leon Lee had interviewed former inmates of the notorious Masanjia labour camp where the author had been incarcerated. He’d used his contacts from making that film to find him. Lee talked to him via an encrypted Skype call. They decided to make a film about the letter, the labour camps, and political repression in China. But Lee was barred from China. If he’d travelled there, he’d have ended up in jail, or worse. So he trained the letter’s author – now happy to use his name Sun Yi – in covert filmmaking techniques, and how to smuggle encrypted hard drives to Canada to get the footage to Lee to make the film. The film that Lee made – Letter from Masanjia – had two parts: one looked back on the story of Sun Yi’s incarceration, decoration-making, letter writing and smuggling (illustrated by cartoons Sun Yi drew himself), and the other documented his ongoing persecution by the state after release for his past and continued activism (including making this film). When letter from Masanjia came out, it was a sensation. The plot was so unbelievable, so i-have-no-idea-what-will-happen-next, so emotionally complex, that it had to be true. Festival audiences around the world were blown away. It’s a classic ‘follow the thing’ narrative – people in other parts of the world make the things that Western consumers buy in horrible conditions. Here, however, the worker is in the narrative’s driving seat, first writing and smuggling the letter, and then filming (and drawing) the story that’s edited for release. The risks he has taken, and the calm, determined demeanour he shows in the process, amaze the film’s audiences. As does the meeting that takes place between him and Julie Keith in Jakarta, which ends the film. As does Sun Yi’s death in suspicious circumstances at the end of the filming. As well as being a hugely emotional producer-meets-consumer story, and a hugely brave and tragic success story of trade justice activism, Letter to Masanjia message is both anti-capitalist and anti-communist. There’s something in it for everyone. Any exposé of something ‘Made in China’ can do that. It generated tons of discussion and debate, which we’ve tried to capture below. This Halloween tale is incredibly scary.

Page reference: Ian Cook et al (2025) Letter from Masanjia. followthethings.com/letter-from-masanjia.shtml (last accessed <insert date here>)

Estimated reading time: 123 minutes.

Posted on December 16, 2024September 6, 2025 by Ian Cook

Who made my clothes?

followthethings.com
Follow it yourself | Follow it yourself

TEACH ECONOMIC GEOGRAPHY

ENCOURAGE DETECTIVE WORK

FIND & GIVE INSPIRATION

TARGET THE RIGHT BRAND

CHOOSE THE RIGHT THING

PLACE THINGS CAREFULLY

“Who made my clothes?“
A ‘follow it yourself’ detective work task originally written for learners taking Fashion Revolution’s / University of Exeter’s ‘Who made my clothes?’ free online course starting in 2017 .
Introductory video embedded above. Course outline available on the Futurelearn website here (course no longer available). Course instagram feed here and twitter feed here. Search for learners’ blog posts here.

In the summers of 2017 and 2018, we ran a free online course called ‘Who made my clothes?’ with and for the Fashion Revolution movement. 16,000 people from all over the world, many with experience working in the industry, joined us for three weeks to Be Curious (week 1), Find Out (week 2), and Do Something (week 3). We’re hoping the course will run again but, in the meantime, wanted to share some of its content: the parts where we showed how fashion’s supply chains work and the places and lives they connect (via an excellent webdoc series from NPR which is featured on our site here) and then how you can do this research yourselves, with your own clothes, to create your own personal answers to the question ‘Who made my clothes?’ You can try this for yourself, set it for your class to do, whatever you like. It starts with each person choosing an item of clothing that’s special to them, one they wear every day, one they know nothing about. The mystery helps. Follow our advice… and see what you can find, and how you can creatively express and share these findings. This task will in volve a lot of educated guesswork, but you can always get in touch with the brands to see if you’ve got it right! We’ll add some of our learners’ posts along the way so you can see what’s possible.

Page reference: Ian Cook, Verity Jones & Kellie Cox (2025) Who made my clothes? followthethings.com/who-made-my-clothes.shtml (last accessed <add date here>)

Estimated reading time: 19 minutes

Posted on August 28, 2024January 10, 2025 by Ian Cook

No Pride In Primark

followthethings.com
Fashion | Gifts & Seasonal

REDUCE DISCRIMINATION

WASH IT WITH WOKENESS

“No Pride In Primark“
Popular activist campaign against Primark’s ‘Pride’ clothing & accessories made in anti-LGBTQ+ countries.
To see what sparked this, watch Primark’s promotional video above.

UK LGBTQ+ rights charity Stonewall collaborates with high street fashion retailer Primark on its 2018 ‘Pride’ range of clothing and accessories. They will be sold throughout Europe and North America and 20% of their profits will go to Stonewall. But none of the proceeds will go to the organisers of Pride celebrations, some of whom are struggling for money. And many of the countries in which this ‘Pride’ merch is being made – like Turkey, Myanmar & China – ban LGBTQ+ events and NGOs and imprison people for homosexuality. So what should Primark & Stonewall do? Where should people shopping for Pride merch go? And what’s it like to be an LGBTQ+ worker in Turkey, Myanmar or China making t-shirts and other merch that ‘celebrates what you are not allowed to be’? These are the questions asked by social media critics and the journalists who pick up their criticisms. It’s not a huge orchestrated campaign. No NGO or other organisation orchestrates it. Nevertheless, it becomes a notorious case of a high street brand ‘pink-washing’ (a form of ‘woke-washing’) their supply chain operations. In the wake of these criticisms, Primark continues to support LGBTQ+ organisations in many countries, but has it addressed the crackdowns on LGBTQ people in those countries where its rainbow merch is made? Should it withdraw its orders from these countries? Or keep working there, supporting – via Stonewall and other organisations – the LGBTQ+ organisations and workers who need it? Does it do so? And how can it convince the media, activists and consumers that it’s doing so? LGBTQ+ people represent a big market for clothing sales.

Page reference: Ian Cook et al (2024) No Pride In Primark (taster). followthethings.com/no-pride-in-primark.shtml (last accessed <insert date here>)

Estimated reading time: 15 minutes.

Posted on August 28, 2024January 5, 2025 by Ian Cook

Dream Crazy

followthethings.com
Fashion | Sport & Fitness

“Dream Crazy“
An advertising campaign for Nike by the Wieden+Kennedy agency.
Video ad embedded ABOVE. Full campaign materials here.

It’s the 30th anniversary of Nike’s ‘Just Do it’ campaign. So the advertising agency hired by the brand most associated with sweatshops hires an African American football player called Colin Kaepernick to front it. He’s the quarterback who became famous in 2016 for taking the knee during the national anthem before games because, he said, ‘I am not going to stand up to show pride in a flag for a country that oppresses Black people and people of color’. After George Floyd was murdered by a police officer in 2020, taking the knee became associated with support for the Black Lives Matter movement. Condemned as unpatriotic by many, including President Trump, Nike was courting controversy by making Kaepernick the figurehead of its campaign. But he could show that by ‘dreaming crazy’, marginalised people like himself could excel. And Nike could be part of this. But strange things happened. People who did’t like Kaepernick and the Black Lives Matter movement started burning their Nike gear, criticising its production overseas by sweatshop workers and boycotting the brand. Others normally critical of Nike said they’d buy more from them because of their support for BLM. Others asked why the lives of Nike’s Black consumers and consumers of color mattered more than the lives of their Black producers and producers of color. What did Kaepernick know and think about these marginalised people and their dreams before he took Nike’s money? This kind of advertising – where, for example, civil rights are used to mask labour rights – is called woke-washing. Nike seems to be running this campaign to stir controversy, by launching it on Labor Day bang into the US’s toxic ‘culture war’ around BLM. This campaign itself isn’t trade justice activism. But the responses to it are. The debates that it can take you into are around ‘systemic racism’ and ‘racial capitalism’. Why is it that the workers trade justice activists are concerned about tend to live in the Global South and be people of colour while the consumers they address tend to live on the Global North and seem by default to be white? How did that happen? Can trade justice / follow the thing activism be decolonised? Who would do this work? What commodities would they trace from where to where? What would they make for what kinds of audiences to act upon? And you might be wondering if this controversial campaign does Nike any harm. No. Its impact was much more about the uncomfortable, progressive, ‘mind-f$@k’ conversations that it sparked. Thank you Colin…

Page reference: Louise Mason, Maddy Shackley, Izzie Jeffrey, Megan Holden, Sophia Stainer, Emily Taylor, Andrew Gamble & Monty Leaman (2018) Dream Crazy. followthethings.com/dream-crazy.shtml (last accessed <add date here>)

Estimated reading time: 101 minutes.