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followthethings.com
Health & Beauty
“Ahava Stolen Beauty“
An activist campaign organised by CODEPINK Women For Peace.
12 video YouTube playlist compiled by the US Campaign for Palestinian Rights embedded above shows protests taking place at multiple sites selling Ahava products in Canada, USA, The Netherlands, Israel & France. Click here for more footage of campaign protests and explainer videos. Click here for Code Pink’s ‘Ahava Stolen Beauty’ campaign website.
After the aftermath of Israel’s invasion of Gaza in 2008-9, members of the American women-led grassroots peace and human rights organisation CODEPINK visit a factory on the bank of the Dead Sea which makes cosmetic products from its salts and minerals on occupied Palestinian land. According to the Geneva Convention, occupying forces cannot take or profit from the natural resources of an occupied territory. Sold in department stores, spas and Ahava stores around the world, Ahava products are stamped as ‘Made in Israel’. Critics say that the company’s profits support the illegal settlement where the factory is based. So CODEPINK encourage women are concerned about beauty and disgusted by the occupation to use their consumer power to boycott Ahava products, and to use their citizen power to protest at their sites of sale (in bikinis and bathrobes to attract attention). When the US arm of Ahava later launches an #ahavareborn rebrand campaign on twitter and asks for suggestions, critics pile in with sarcastic slogans about aspects of the occupation that Ahava products can help to conceal or wash away. As the boycott gathers momentum, supporters of Israel criticise it – and the wider Boycott, Divestment & Sanctions (BDS) movement that it became part of – as antisemitic, and pro-Israel consumers start counter-campaigns, buycotts, encouraging people to buy as many Ahava products as they can from targeted stores. But, despite this, Ahava stores shut, retailers refuse to stock Ahava goods, governments pass legislation forbidding ‘Made in Israel’ to be printed on goods produced in occupied Palestinian territories and, eventually, Ahava moves its factory to an unoccupied site. To add to this mix, laws forbidding the boycotting of ‘Made in Israel’ goods are passed around the world. This is an epic, controversial example of effective trade justice activism. The message was simple: there was no beauty in occupation. The repercussions of this actvism are with us today
NB this page is a taster. There’s much more to add after out new site is launched. Please check back.
Page reference: Ian Cook et al (2024) Ahava Stolen Beauty (taster). followthethings.com/ahava-stolen-beauty.shtml (last accessed <insert date here>)
Estimated reading time: 19 minutes.
24 comments
Descriptions
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Behind its statements of environmental consciousness and message of love, [skincare brand] AHAVA is hiding a dirty secret: although its products say ‘Made in Israel,’ its plant is in the occupied West Bank. That means that the Dead Sea Mineral Mud is made from exploited natural resources – AHAVA is appropriating the mud from the Dead Sea and passing it off as an Israeli product. Under the Geneva Conventions, it is illegal for an occupying force to take from or profit from the natural resources of the occupied country. AHAVA’s products are illegally made and sold: they are stolen goods (Source: GRRRL_REVOLUTION 2009, np link).
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In 2009, the antiwar activist group CodePink launched the ‘Stolen Beauty’ campaign, specifically targeting Ahava’s products as part of the larger boycott, divestment and sanctions (BDS) campaign (Source: Miller 2012, np link).
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On June 6 [2009], the group launched its … campaign at the Hilton Hotel in Tel Aviv, where pink bikini-clad protesters painted ‘NO AHAVA/NO LOVE’ on their bodies in mud (Source: Eanet 2009, p.10).
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The Stolen Beauty campaign has included protest actions by ‘bikini brigades’ around the United States organized by the American peace group CODEPINK, and allied actions have taken place in London, Paris, Vienna, Montreal and Amsterdam. The Dutch ‘bathrobe brigades’ that appeared in shopping centers in Amsterdam and Haarlem … caught the eye of the press (Source: Nieuwhof 2009, np link).
+1 comment
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The Ahava Shop in Covent Garden sold health and beauty treatments extracted, processed and imported from the Dead Sea. On 22 November 2010 [activists] … entered the shop, placed a heavy concrete tube on the floor and padlocked themselves to the tube. They both stated that they had no intention of buying anything in the shop or using any of its services. [They] … claimed that the company that owned the shop and its Israeli parent company were acting unlawfully by trading in goods that came from the Occupied Palestinian Territories (OPT). [They] had both conducted extensive research into the activities of Ahava and handed out lengthy documents to police and members of the public at the scene. These documents alleged that the company was, inter alia, aiding and abetting war crimes contrary to s. 52 of the International Criminal Court Act 2001, using misleading labelling contrary to the Consumer Protection from Unfair Trading Regulations 2008 (SI 2008 No. 1777); cheating the Revenue contrary to common law; and possessing criminal property contrary to s. 329 of the Proceeds of Crime Act 2002 (Source: Newman 2012, p.286-7).
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Inspiration / Technique / Process / Methodology
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Ahava Dead Sea Laboratories [is] … an Israeli company that makes bath salts, sun screen, foot scrubs and other high-end products sold in pharmacies and department stores (Source: Codepink National 2009, np link).
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[It] has situated its main manufacturing plant and showroom at the Israeli Jewish settlement in the Occupied Palestinian West Bank … Mitzpe Shalem … an illegal settlement (Source: Kricorian 2009, np link).
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Code Pink, the women’s peace group famed for head-to-toe pink attire and unabashed disruption of business as usual on Capitol Hill, coalesced in opposition to war in Afghanistan and Iraq. According to member Nancy Kricorian, Code Pink expanded its mandate to include the occupation of Palestine when it joined the Campaign (End the Israeli Occupation) in 2006 – but the gesture was largely symbolic, as the group’s work remained focused on Afghanistan and Iraq. This quiet engagement became much louder in the aftermath of Operation Cast Lead, when Code Pink brought Palestine to the front and centre of its agenda, to the dismay of several members and funders (Source: Erakat 2012, np link).
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The Stolen Beauty campaign, which began in the aftermath of the brutal Israeli invasion of the Gaza Strip in 2008-’09, is part of the larger boycott, divestment and sanctions (BDS) movement that grew out of a 2005 call by a vast swathe of Palestinian civil society groups for BDS against Israel. Modeled on the anti-apartheid movement that targeted South Africa, the Palestinian-led BDS movement demands that Israel withdraw from the occupied Palestinian territories, implement equal rights for Palestinian citizens of Israel and recognize the ‘right of return’ for Palestinian refugees and their descendants who fled or were expelled from Palestine during the1947-’49 Arab-Israeli war (Source: Kane 2010, np link).
+2 comments
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There have already been several high-profile actions worldwide: during a Gaza delegation, CODEPINK activists investigated for themselves the AHAVA factory and staged the first protest in a spa in Tel-Aviv’s Hilton Hotel. There have since been actions at a Tel-Aviv beach event in Central Park, NYC, at a cosmetics trade event in Las Vegas, and local actions at upscale beauty salons in Washington DC and Santa Monica. A group in Paris, France also staged a demonstration at the Champs-Elysées Sephora (Source: GRRRL_REVOLUTION 2009, np link).
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Omar Barghouti, a founding member of the Palestinian Campaign for the Academic and Cultural Boycott of Israel, wrote in an e-mail. ‘The Stolen Beauty Campaign against Ahava, led by our partner CodePink, is a truly inspiring BDS campaign, as it is creative, focused, well-researched and very effective in conveying the message across to and, more crucially, in mobilizing BDS action in a wider, more mainstream audience’ (Source: Kane 2010, np link).
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Discussion / Responses
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AHAVA CEO – Yaakov Ellis: [CODEPINK] Claim – ‘Ahava uses in its products mud excavated in an occupied area, and thus it exploits occupied natural resources for profit, which is a violation of the Fourth Geneva Convention.’ Facts: – The mud and minerals used in Ahava’s cosmetic products are not excavated in an occupied area. The minerals are mined in the Israeli part of the Dead Sea, which is undisputed internationally. – The mining area and operation are limited in scope, and in no way affect or hinder any future use of minerals from the Dead Sea, or causes any permanent harm to the environment or to the area’s natural resources. Claim – ‘The presence in Mitzpe Shalem creates a lot of problems for the Palestinians that live there.’ Facts: – Ahava does not interfere with the Palestinian population. Mitzpe Shalem is situated in an unpopulated area in undisputed territory in the Judea Desert, and there are no Palestinians residing in the vicinity of Mitzpe Shalem. – The presence and activities of Ahava at the Mitzpe Shalem facility has not been cited in any complaint by any legitimate representative of the Palestinian population and does not violate any rights of any peoples. Claim – ‘Ahava’s products are produced in the illegal settlement of MitzpeShalem.’ Facts: – Mitzpe Shalem is not an illegal settlement. Ahava’s manufacturing facility is located at Kibbutz Mitzpe Shalem, on the North‐Western shore of the Dead Sea, just 6 miles north of the “Green Line”, within the area usually referred as the West Bank. – Ahava’s use of the Mitzpe Shalem facility is legal and does not violate any provision of International Law, especially as there is no recognized right of any peoples other than Israel to the West Bank (Source: Ellis 2010, np link).
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After a Washington, D.C.-based group protested in July 2010 against Ahava products being sold in Ulta, a beauty store, the Jewish Community Relations Committee of Greater Washington urged supporters to buy Ahava products. Brooklyn’s Ricky’s shop has also become the epicenter of a dispute over the Boycott Ahava movement. After a July 9 protest outside the store led by CodePink’s Stolen Beauty and Brooklyn for Peace, which signed onto the campaign in May, a group of rabbis in Brooklyn drafted a letter in response, urging people to buy Ahava products and denouncing the campaign. The rabbis’ letter claimed that ‘CodePink ignores the history and legal status of Mizpeh Shalom’ because it is located in ‘‘Area C’, a huge section of the West Bank over which Israel, again by joint agreement, was granted full control, except over Palestinian civilians.’ (The Area C designation comes out of the 1993-era Oslo Accords between Israel and the Palestinian Authority. Area C incorporates all West Bank settlements.) ‘Local Jewish leaders find the idea of a boycott of Israel to be a misguided and one-sided approach to a complex and deeply troubling conflict,’ said Rabbi Andy Bachman, a signatory to the letter and a member of the liberal group J Street’s Rabbinic Cabinet. ‘The problem with a boycott is there’s one side that’s all right and another side that’s all wrong. If that’s what the boycotters think, then there really is nothing to discuss. But if not, then why not boycott Palestinian business for years of rejecting peace accords?’ So far, Ricky’s has not budged, and continues to sell Ahava products. Dominick Costello, the president of the store, refused to comment (Source: Kane 2010, np link).
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A call to boycott Israeli-made Ahava products in a Maryland beauty supply store backfired last week when pro- Israel activists countered by purchasing the shop’s entire Ahava inventory.When the Jewish Community Relations Council of Greater Washington found out that the pro-Palestinian group Sabeel DC had organized a protest and boycott call at Ulta in Silver Spring last Saturday, the organization sent out an action alert urging supporters to visit the store and buy Ahava. ‘They cleaned the shelves out. It was the best Ahava sales weekend the store has ever seen. They had to order an expedited shipment’ afterward, said Arielle Farber, director of Israel and International Affairs for the Community Relations Council. ‘The greater Washington community is not going to stand for this campaign to delegitimize Israel’ (Source: Krieger 2010, np link).
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On Wednesday, May 11 and Thursday, May 12 [2011] , Ahava US, the U.S. arm of the Israeli cosmetics firm based in an illegal West Bank settlement, and @birchbox, an online cosmetics retailer, ran a marketing contest on the social media site Twitter using the hashtag #AhavaReborn, which is the slogan for Ahava’s current rebranding campaign. Members of the public were invited to submit beauty care questions with the lure of a prize of $300 worth of Ahava products for the best query. US group CODEPINK Women for Peace, which manages the Stolen Beauty Ahava Boycott campaign, alerted other BDS activists about the marketing campaign and suggested using the opportunity for a culture jam to subvert Ahava’s rebranding effort.As people who hoped for the prize tweeted #AhavaReborn with their beauty questions about cracked heels, blemishes and dry skin, BDS campaigners used ready-made Tweets that CODEPINK had sent out. But quickly the culture jammers began inventing their own original tweets and even started responding to actual contestants with personal messages and tips – all of them around why consumers should avoid Ahava products. Many of the BDS campaigners’ questions for @birchbox and Ahava were highly amusing, and all of them highlighted Ahava’s complicity in Israel’s illegal Occupation. Throughout the 48 hours, BDS campaigners also posted tweets with links to the Stolen Beauty website for background information on Ahava for those who wanted to know more … BDS campaigners excelled at using creativity and biting wit to get their messages across in a few words … The two days were a victory for BDS campaigners who took the opportunity provided by Ahava’s rebranding attempt through social media and turned it into a platform for BDS messaging (Source: Horowitz 2011, np link).
+3 comments
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[#ahavareborn] The tear gas that the Israeli military fires on me when I visit Palestinian friends in Silwan is ruining my skin. What to do (Source: @bethlehemballet in Horowitz 2011, np link)?
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An Ahava cosmetics store in London was picketed until it finally closed down. Ahava is an Israeli company. But the BDS movement will boycott any company that has dealings with Israel, including large multinationals like Coca-Cola and Nestle. The anti-Israel boycott movement says it’s not anti-Semitic, but they don’t boycott any other nations. Israel is a democracy. There are plenty of cruel dictatorships around the world they could boycott, but they don’t. ‘No other country. Just Israel. You won’t see this against any other country in the world that they don’t agree with,’ Richard Millet, who tracks the BDS movement through his website, said. ‘They won’t be calling for a boycott of America, which they don’t agree with, or the British government, which they don’t agree with, before we get into China, Russia, Syria, or Saudi Arabia,’ he continued. ‘You name it. All the other countries, there is no boycott. So you answer why?’ The BDS movement is taking over college campuses in Europe and America. Ronnie Fraser, a college lecturer and founding director of the Academic Friends of Israel, warns that the next generation of leaders is being brainwashed that Israel is the worst nation on earth. ‘Britain’s students are being fed a diet of ‘Israel is a racist state. Israel is a Zionist state. Israel equals the Nazis,’ he said. … He accused the BDS movement of “the de-legitimization of Israeli, the destruction of Israel’… In Germany, Nazi persecution of the Jews began with a boycott in April 1933. While some who are boycotting Israel may truly believe theyre only trying to help Palestinians, but to Jews, the goal of the Israel boycott is a destination similar to Nazi Germanys (Source: Hurd nd, np link).
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Despite claims to the contrary, a principled stand for dignity, justice, and equality for all in Israel and Palestine is not anti-Semitic. To boycott settlement goods is not anti-Semitic. To criticize Israeli government policy is not anti-Semitic. In fact, holding Israel to account for its violations of international law is the responsibility of all people of faith, whether Jewish, Christian, Muslim, or of any other creed (Source: Abileah & Kricorian 2012, np link).
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Outcomes / Impacts
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Abigail Disney, a descendant of one of the Disney Company founders, said Monday that she is renouncing her share of the family’s profits in the Israeli cosmetics company Ahava, saying it is engaged in the ‘exploitation of occupied natural resources’ (Source: Hass 2012, np link).
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In November 2009, the Dutch Foreign Ministry agreed to investigate Ahava’s manufacturing and labelling practices. Costco, a large U.S. retailer, was pressured into halting the sale of Ahava products at its stores in January 2010 (Source: Kane 2010, np link).
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Protesters managed to force the closure of Ahava’s flagship London store in 2011 and John Lewis has ceased stocking the range, leaving PB as the main vehicle for Ahava products in Britain. Activists have pledged to target PB’s main trade fair in London next February (Source: Lazen 2012, np).
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[The campaign’s] most significant victory came with the news that the governments of South Africa and Denmark would no longer label imports from Israeli settlements as ‘Made in Israel‘ (Source: Miller 2012, np link).
+3 comments
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The Israeli government has taken notice of the growing BDS movement. The Israeli Knesset recently passed a preliminary reading of anti-boycott legislation that would impose fines on Israeli activists promoting boycotts of Israel. A February 2010 report by the Reut Institute, an Israeli think-tank with close ties to Israel’s government, identified the BDS movement as an threat to the state (Source: Kane 2010, np link).
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The Israeli cosmetics company Ahava says it is considering moving its factory from a Jewish-only settlement in the occupied West Bank to a new location inside present-day Israel. … The news was reported in Globes, an Israeli business news website, on Monday, which noted that the company has ‘come under enormous pressure from pro-Palestinian and BDS groups in recent years.’ … ‘This is a clear indication of the growing power of the BDS movement, which is scoring new victories every day, [said Ahava Stolen Beauty campaaign manager Nancy Kricorian] … [But, w]hile Ahava has said it may relocate its factory out of the West Bank, the company has not given any commitment to stop stealing and exploiting Palestinian natural resources. Palestinian rights activists and international boycott campaigners say they are far from easing the pressure on Ahava (Source: Barrows-Friedman 2015, np link).
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For the past 28 years, the Israeli cosmetics giant Ahava has manufactured its line of Dead Sea mud-based skincare products in a settlement located in the Israeli-occupied West Bank. But this month, the company announced it would build a new facility 10 miles to the south, just across the internationally recognized border separating Israel proper from the Palestinian territory (Source: Asher-Shapiro 2016, np link).
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Page compiled by students taking the ‘Geographies of Material Culture’ module at the University of Exeter in 2012. Edited by Ian Cook (last updated October 2024). Authorship attributed to Ian Cook et al in difficult political times. This is a taster page. To be completed.
Sources
Abileah, R. & Kricorian, N. (2012) Endorse the Stolen Beauty Ahava Boycott. Unbound: the intersectons of faith & justice 5 September (https://justiceunbound.org/endorse-the-stolen-beauty-ahava-boycott/ last accessed 20 October 2024)
Asher-Shapiro, A. (2016) Companies Are Leaving the West Bank as International Boycott Campaign Gains Ground. Vice 28 March (https://www.vice.com/en/article/companies-are-leaving-the-west-bank-as-international-boycott-campaign-gains-ground/ last accessed 20 October 2024)
Barrows-Friedman, N. (2015) Boycott target Ahava may quit Israeli settlement. The Electronic Intifada 9 June (https://electronicintifada.net/blogs/nora-barrows-friedman/boycott-target-ahava-may-quit-israeli-settlement last accessed 20 October 2024)
Codepink National (2009) Spread the word about Ahava’s dirty secrets! CODEPINK (http://codepink.salsalabs.com/o/424/t/9723/postcard.jsp?postcard_KEY=427 last accessed 20 October 2012)
+14 sources
Eanet, L. ( 2009) Stolen beauty, stolen resources. In these times September, p.10
Ellis, Y. (2010) Ahava: Setting the Record Straight. Stolen Beauty (http://www.stolenbeauty.org/article.php?id=5548 last accessed 27 October 2012)
Erakat, N. (2010) BDS in the USA, 2001-2010. Middle East Report 255 (https://merip.org/2010/05/bds-in-the-usa-2001-2010/ last accessed 20 October 2024)
GRRRL_REVOLUTION (2009) CODEPINK women for peace launches Stolen Beauty Campaign. Feministing (http://community.feministing.com/2009/07/30/codepink-women-for-peace-launches-stolen-beauty-campaign/ last accessed 22 October 2012)
Hass, A. (2012) Disney family member renounces her investments in Israel’s Ahava Cosmetics. Haaretz 16 July (http://www.haaretz.com/news/diplomacy-defense/disney-family-member-renounces-her-investments-in-israel-s-ahava-cosmetics-1.451506 last accessed 20 October 2024)
Horowitz, A. (2011) Stolen Beauty boycott culture jam turns Ahava’s online marketing contest into a social media #FAI., Mondoweiss 13 May (http://mondoweiss.net/2011/05/stolen-beauty-boycott-culture-jam-turns-ahava%E2%80%99s-online-marketing-contest-into-a-social-media-fail.html last accessed 20 October 2024)
Hurd, D. (nd) Israel Boycott Resembles Nazi’s ‘Judenfrei’. CBN (https://cbn.com/news/world/israel-boycott-resembles-nazis-judenfrei last accessed 20 October 2024)
Kane, A. (2012) Israeli Beauty Products Company Ahava Complicit in the Sins of Occupation. US Campaign For The Academic Boycott Of Israel 18 September (https://usacbi.org/2010/09/israeli-beauty-products-company-ahava-complicit-in-the-sins-of-occupation/ last accessed 20 October 2024)
Kricorian, N. (2009) Israeli Cosmetic Company Is About to Learn It Can’t Cover Up Its Role in the Occupation. Alternet (http://www.alternet.org/story/141483/israeli_cosmetic_company_is_about_to_learn_it_can%27t_cover_up_its_role_in_the_occupation?page=0%2C0 last accessed 23 October 2012)
Krieger, H.L. (2010) Pro-Israel shoppers defy Ahava products boycott call. The Jerusalem Post 25 July (https://www.jpost.com/international/pro-israel-shoppers-defy-ahava-products-boycott-call last accessed 20 October 2024)
Lazen, P. (2012) Palestine activists target ‘ugly’ beauty trade show. Morning Star 15 October
Miller, A. L. (2012) Campaign & New Law Challenge Chic Israeli Company Ahava Cosmetics, Whose ‘Dead Sea Mud’ Illegally Exploits Palestinians. Alternet (http://www.alternet.org/story/155873/campaign_and_new_law_challenge_chic_israeli_company_ahava_cosmetics,_whose_%22dead_sea_mud%22_illegally_exploits_palestinians?paging=off last accessed 25 October 2012)
Nieuwhof, A. (2009) Boycott of Ahava Dead Sea products makes an impact. The Electronic Intifada 2 December (https://electronicintifada.net/content/boycott-ahava-dead-sea-products-makes-impact/8563 last accessed 20 October 2024)
Newman, C. J. (2012) Protest & Aggravated Trespass: Refining the Scope of ‘Lawful Activities’ & ‘Immediately Practicable’. The Journal of Criminal Law 76(4), p.286-292
Image credit
Speaking icon: Speaking (https://thenounproject.com/icon/speaking-5549886/) by M Faisal from Noun Project (CC BY 3.0) Modified August 2024